“My ends are so dead”
“My hair feels so dry”
“You’re gonna be so mad at me, my hair is in such bad shape”
I can’t even tell you how many times I hear these things from cleints. Every dang day. It seems like everyone is on a quest to get the healthiest hair of their life (myself included), and while using quality product, investing in good tools, and getting the occasional trim-ski can definitely help, there’s one key piece of this hair-care puzzle that everyone seems to miss!
If I could, I would never pick up a hot tool ever again, but alas, I’m addicted to my curling iron and the perfect signature messy waves she gives me (NEVER GONNA GIVE YOU UP). I just can’t stop! I know many of you are probably just as equally attached to your hot tools, and I’m here to tell you my best kept secret for maintaining healthier hair.
ATTENTION EVERYONE:
Turn the temperature down on your effin’ irons!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(I cannot stress how many exclamation points I wanted to include)
The temperature of your curling iron or flat iron is directly related to how fried your hair is. We scorch and sizzle our hair every day, sometimes multiple times a day and we wonder why it won’t grow! Newsflash, she’s snappin’ off.
Your hair stays attached to you for a long time! Think of your new growth near the scalp is like a newborn baby and your dry, crispy ends like your great grandma. She’s been thru a lot. She’s a little worse for wear. She needs her meds. You have to take really good care of her to keep her around! If you don’t, BAM. She could be gone any second.
DON’T SCORCH YOUR GRANNY ON 450.
Ok, not my best (or happiest) analogy. Let’s try again.
Think of your hair like a chicken dinner. If you toss her in the oven with a little garlic salt and some EVOO at 350 for 35 mins, amazing, cooked to perfection. BUT if you roast that babe on 450, she’s gonna be C R I S P. Your hair is getting overcooked, dry, brittle, and trust me, hair does NOT taste as good as a crispy chicken strip from Wendy’s (because let’s be honest, I’m not actually cooking).
I would MUCH rather you iron your hair at a lower temperature than scorch the living daylights out of it. I’m not asking you to quit, just make a small adjustment. It WILL make a difference!
So, what temperature is the right temperature?
There’s no clear answer for everyone, but I like to stay right around 325. Fine to medium hair of any texture should respond perfectly well to this lower temp. If you are a bit coarser, curlier, or extra frizzy, bumping it up to 350-375 is okay on occasion if its extra humid outside, but there is no reason to go close to 400! And ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO USE HEAT PROTECTANT.
I prep everyone in the salon with Unite 7Seconds Detangler. This is my favorite UV/heat protectant that helps unsnarl snags and tames tangles. It also adds in major hydration to color treated (think of this like medicine for your decrepit, granny-like ends) and smells so good! A must have for iron addicts (myself included).
Instinctually, we crank our temps up because when we want to use our iron, we want it RIGHT FREAKIN’ NOW. But fun fact, your iron heats up just as quickly set at 300 as it does at 400 (if you have a decent one, that is.) So do me a favor, next time you go to use your hot tool, give it a fair few minutes to actually heat up instead of diving right in! Brush your teeth, wash your face, do any other 2 minute task and your hair will be MUCH happier.
I know, I know, you object. Change is hard! You’re not the only one stuggling. I have this conversation in the salon A LOT and I’ve heard it all. Below are some resolutions to your worries:
But Jenna, it’ll take forever!
No, it won’t. You may have to hold your iron on for one extra mississippi, but that isn’t whats making you late for work. (It’s prob because you can’t get your eyeliner wings even…JUST SAYIN’) In reality you shouldn’t have to go over your sections more than one time if are taking proper section sizes* and using good technique!
*if you’re wondering about proper section sizes, as a good rule of thumb the width of your iron should be the width of your section. 1″ curling iron barrel? 1″ section. 1.5″ flat iron plates? 1.5″ section. 2″ barrel? 2″ section. Easy!
But Jenna, my hair won’t hold!
Yes, it will.
If you have resistant hair to curling, or your hair frizzes up right away after flat ironing, you need some product in your life. For stubborn hair, prep work is key!
I love Unite Boosta Volumizing Spray or KEH Thickening Spray in damp hair to add a little grit and hold if I know I’m going to add curls later. For smoothing I love a little Unite Lazer Straight Relaxing Fluid added to freshly washed hair to tame fuzz and keep frizz a bay. (PS you can air dry all of these products and still reap all the benefits!)
If you need extra staying power a little hairspray goes a long way, and if you still aren’t getting hold, come in for a tutorial! I’d love to help a sister out!
But Jenna, my iron doesn’t have different heat settings!
Time for a new one!
I know this answer sucks, and I’m a little hypocritical because my flat iron I use at the salon is a GHD and doesn’t have a temp setting, but I highly highly highly recommend investing in a good one. It will seriously impact the health of your hair and make your life so much easier!
But Jenna, I have no money for a fancy new tool!
Same girl, same…
Let me introduce you to Kristen Ess– hair goddess. She’s one of my favorite people to follow and she has a haircare line a Target (don’t pretend you aren’t already there 10 times a week). Her products are pretty good and her tools are AMAZING! I’ll actually be replacing all of my Hot Tools Irons with hers once mine kick the bucket. They are around $50 and have 4 heat settings (I use the lowest one, 325) ALSO AUTO SHUTOFF. So worth it. Check them out here.
“If we treated our hair the way dog people treated their dogs, our hair would be amazing.”
-Me [avid cat person]
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